SMART HOME BUTLER · LIVING ROOM
The lights fill in what daylight leaves out
When the sun is strong the lamps dim themselves; when the sky darkens they come back up. You will not notice them moving — only that the room always feels right.
Living room lights usually only know on and off
On an overcast afternoon a living room is already dim, but people hold out because it still feels like daytime. By the time it is obviously too dark to see, your eyes have been straining for a while.
The reverse happens just as often: the lights go on in the morning, the sun comes out at noon, and nobody remembers to switch them off. They stay on, pointlessly, all day.
The problem is that daylight is always changing while a lamp has one fixed brightness. With nothing connecting the two, you get alternating stretches of too dark and simply wasteful.
The right way to think about it is total brightness
What you actually care about is not how bright the lamp is but how bright the room is. Daylight plus artificial light is what your eyes experience. Since daylight varies, the artificial half should vary in the opposite direction and keep the sum steady.
One day in the room, hour by hour
Unfolding that chart into six moments makes it easier to see what the system is actually doing for you. The amber band is what comes in through the window; the blue band is what the lamps put back.
- 06:40
First light, lamps only half awake
The sky outside is still grey-blue and daylight covers barely a fifth of the target. The lamps supply the rest, just enough to make out the floor and the coffee table. You sit down with a glass of water and nothing glares at you.
- 09:30
The sun arrives and the lamps step back
Light climbs across the window and daylight reaches around three fifths. The lamps top up only the remaining slice, putting out far less than they did three hours ago, yet the brightness you perceive has not changed. You are across the room tidying and answering a few messages.
- 13:00
Peak daylight, almost every lamp off
Daylight alone holds the target, and only the corner with its back to the window keeps a fitting lit. You read on the sofa for an entire afternoon without reaching for a single switch, and no part of the room feels dim.
- 17:40
Dusk falls faster than you expect
Within half an hour daylight drops from half the target to a trace, the lamps take over most of the load, and the colour starts drifting warm. It is the steepest handover of the day, but because it is gradual all you notice is that the evening stopped looking grey.
- 20:30
All lamp now, but the target has come down
Nothing is left outside, so every bit of brightness in the room is artificial. Since this period asks for under half the daytime level, the walls read warm, which suits a series or a conversation.
- 23:10
Late night, only enough to move by
Brightness sits at its lowest step. You fetch water from the kitchen, close a door and walk back to the bedroom, seeing your feet and finding the handle without a wash of white light chasing away the sleepiness you just built up.
Six periods, six different targets
The total should not be fixed all day either. Waking up, working, and winding down are different requirements.
| Period | Target total | Colour | Why |
|---|---|---|---|
| 06:00–08:00 early | 60% | 4000K | Eyes have not adjusted yet, and full brightness is uncomfortable |
| 08:00–12:00 morning | 85% | 5000K | The stretch that needs alertness and focus most |
| 12:00–17:00 afternoon | 85% | 4500K | Stay bright, but ease the colour slightly to reduce fatigue |
| 17:00–20:00 evening | 70% | 3500K | Warming up as the body shifts from working to resting |
| 20:00–22:00 night | 45% | 2700K | Clearly warmer and dimmer, supporting melatonin |
| After 22:00 late | 20% | 2200K | Only enough to move around by, without disturbing sleepiness |
Four things it takes care of
Eye comfort
No more holding out in a dim room before switching on. Light stays in a comfortable range, which shows over long stretches of reading or work.
Running cost
When there is enough sun, the lamps dim or switch off on their own. The classic "left on and forgotten" waste disappears entirely.
Body clock
Evening light warms and dims automatically, giving your body the signal to wind down. More effective than reminding yourself to go to bed.
Nothing to manage
You will never notice it adjusting. The only sensation is that the living room always seems about right.
Different rooms, different settings
| Your situation | Suggested change | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Very well lit | Daytime target down to 75% | Plenty of sun already; too high a target leaves lamps on needlessly |
| Poorly lit | Daytime target up to 90% | Mostly artificial light, so aim higher or the room feels dim all day |
| Living room doubles as a study | Morning and afternoon to 90% | A space for concentration needs more light |
| Older adults at home | Every period up 10% | Eyes need more light with age to see the same detail |
| You watch a lot of films | Add a separate cinema scene | Watching needs it genuinely dark, which this automation should not manage — a scene handles it better |
What you need to have
| What it does | Category in the system | Essential? |
|---|---|---|
| Dimmable living room lights | light | Yes |
| Measure current brightness | sensor illuminance | Strongly advised |
| Know sunrise and sunset | sun, built in | Ships with the hub |
| Colour-adjustable lights | light | Nice to have |
How the whole thing works
Use the ready-made blueprint
The hub ships with 22 tested automation blueprints — think of one as a fill-in-the-blanks form. This uses adalight, designed exactly for "six periods a day, each with different light".
| Field | What it means | Suggested |
|---|---|---|
| Which lights | Every dimmable light in the living room | — |
| Period boundaries | Your routine | See the table above |
| Target per period | Six percentages | 60 / 85 / 85 / 70 / 45 / 20 |
| Colour per period | Six Kelvin values | 4000 / 5000 / 4500 / 3500 / 2700 / 2200 |
| Illuminance sensor | Used to subtract the daylight | Include if you have one |
Just say the word
None of those fields needs filling in by hand. The WOOWTECH hub ships with HA-MCP, so AI can connect straight into your system, build the thing, and then go back and check the lights really follow the schedule.
Prompts you can copy straight out
Each block below can be copied whole with the button on the right. Pick the one closest to what you want — you do not need all of them.
Link the living room lights to the daylight. Dim them when there is plenty of sun and bring them up as it gets dark. After eight in the evening go warm and dim, and after ten leave only a low background level. Change the level gradually rather than in jumps.
Build daylight-linked lighting for the living room. Use the ready-made blueprints, do not write a pile of custom rules. Split the day into six periods, each with its own target total brightness and colour temperature: 06:00-08:00 at 60% and 4000K, 08:00-12:00 at 85% and 5000K, 12:00-17:00 at 85% and 4500K, 17:00-20:00 at 70% and 3500K, 20:00-22:00 at 45% and 2700K, after 22:00 at 20% and 2200K. If there is an illuminance sensor, set the lamps to the target minus the daylight already in the room, not to the target itself. If there is no sensor, build the time-only version and tell me so. Keep the changes gentle: at most 10% per adjustment and at least 30 seconds between them, so a passing cloud produces a slow breath rather than a flicker. Pause the rule while the television is playing and resume when playback stops. Once it is built, test it yourself, confirm it really works, and then tell me which devices you used.
Our living room gets a lot of sun and barely needs a lamp at midday. Drop the two daytime targets from 85% to 75%, and let the lights switch off entirely when the daylight is enough instead of holding them on to reach a number. Put the illuminance sensor in the middle of the room facing up, never directly under a fitting, or it reads the lamp as daylight and keeps correcting itself. Leave the four evening periods exactly as they are.
The 20:00 to 22:00 period is too dim — raise the target from 45% to 55%. Make the period after 22:00 warmer still, 2000K instead of 2200K. Also widen the per-step limit from 10% to 15%; it reacts too slowly for me. Leave the other four periods alone.
The living room lights spent the whole afternoon swinging bright and dim, and I suspect the lamps are shining onto the sensor, which then pulls them back the other way. Let us prove it the crude way. Switch the daylight top-up off for one entire day tomorrow. If the illuminance readings go flat, that is our answer. At the end of that day, put the two days side by side for me, then tell me where the sensor should move to, or how much slower the changes need to be.
Common questions
Will the lights keep jumping around?
Where does the illuminance sensor go?
Will my manual adjustment be overridden?
What about watching films?
How much do I lose without a sensor?
Do I have to rebuild it to change a level?
A month from now
You cannot remember the last time you adjusted a living room light, and overcast afternoons no longer include that stretch of squinting before someone gives in.
The clearest change is in the evening: the light dims itself gradually, and you find yourself ready for bed a little earlier than you used to be.